Add-On & Option Overview
(Photos and examples below)
- Seat Tube Reinforcing Lug: Only used when necessary, included in frame price.
- Curved Top Tube: $250, discounted for $150 when curved TT is necessary for ideal fit & design of the bike.
- Choice of Axle Type: Quick Release or Thru Axle, cost for either is included with frame.
- 3rd Water Bottle Mount: $20 on Greylock / Greylock+, Optional & included with all other model frames.
- Rack Mounts: $40 on Greylock / Greylock+, Optional & included with all other model frames.
- Fender Mounts: Optional, included in frame pricing. (Not compatible with Greylock / Greylock+)
- PVF Quick Release Fender Mounts: $150
- Tapered Head Tube: The outside diameter of the frame's head tube tapers, DT miter is hand filed. $100.
- Pump Peg: Optional, included in frame cost.
- Chain Hanger: $20
- Top of top tube bag mounts: $20
- Stainless Sliding Dropouts: $150. These allow run and swap between singlespeed & geared setups.
- Internal Cable Routing: $200 per cable
- Internal Electronic Shifting: $200
- S&S Travel Couplers: $750
- T47 Bottom Bracket: $200
- Twisted Seatstay Bridge: $200 for twisted steel, $350 for stainless steel masked and polished.
PVF Custom Fork Add-On & Option Overview:
- Rack Mounts: $40
- Fender Mounts: $20
- Anything Cage Mounts (on each fork blade): $60
- Generator Hub Light Wiring Guides: $20
- Tapered 1-1/8" - 1-1/2" Steerer: $80, made by Paragon Machineworks in California
Examples & Descriptions
SEAT TUBE LUG REINFORCEMENT
- Only used when necessary, included in frame price.
For some riders, extra strength is needed at the top of the seat tube, where the seatstays and top tube meet. For some cyclists using a rack with a load, heavier riders, and certain aggressive riders, reinforcement to this area is needed to avoid failure. However, if the seat tube is simply bumped up to a larger diameter along its entire length, most of these riders do not actually need that extra reinforcement and material beyond just the top area of the seat tube.
For these cases, I like to make special lugs from scratch that are silver brazed at the top of the seat tube. This provides the extra strength where it is needed, but saves weight over a full-length, oversized seat tube.
For these cases, I like to make special lugs from scratch that are silver brazed at the top of the seat tube. This provides the extra strength where it is needed, but saves weight over a full-length, oversized seat tube.
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CURVED TOP TUBE
- $250, Offered discounted for $150 when curved TT is necessary for ideal fit & design of the bike.
For certain riders with relatively short inseam lengths, getting proper standover clearance over the frame can be quite challenging, especially if they also need a relatively upright riding position. The typical solution is to use a sloped top tube, though for many, the large amount of slope needed to give enough standover causes problems and compromises to the frame. Super sloped top tubes can make it so that there is a large amount of exposed seat post sticking out of the frame- this exerts a lot of stress on both the frame and seatpost and can lead to failure. Dramatically sloped top tubes further shrink the general size of the front triangle of the bike, which can also make it so that room for water bottles can get very tight.
Instead of super dramatically sloped top tubes for certain cases of shorter inseamed riders, I like to make specially curved top tubes. This approach gives the necessary standover clearance, while still keeping the amount of exposed seatpost in reason, and helps buy some more room to fit water bottles.
Some riders also choose a curved top tube simply because they like the aesthetics, and not because it is necessary for the ideal fit of the bike.
Curving top tubes adds a fair bit of design and fabrication complexity. To keep the option accessible for those who end up needing a curved top tube for the ideal fit & design of their frame, curved top tubes are offered at a discounted rate of $150 for those who really need it. For those choosing a curved top tube purely for aesthetics, pricing is $250.
Instead of super dramatically sloped top tubes for certain cases of shorter inseamed riders, I like to make specially curved top tubes. This approach gives the necessary standover clearance, while still keeping the amount of exposed seatpost in reason, and helps buy some more room to fit water bottles.
Some riders also choose a curved top tube simply because they like the aesthetics, and not because it is necessary for the ideal fit of the bike.
Curving top tubes adds a fair bit of design and fabrication complexity. To keep the option accessible for those who end up needing a curved top tube for the ideal fit & design of their frame, curved top tubes are offered at a discounted rate of $150 for those who really need it. For those choosing a curved top tube purely for aesthetics, pricing is $250.
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CHoice of Axle Type
- Quick Release or Thru Axle: price for either is included with frame, both are available on all models.
Thru Axle: This newer axle standard uses larger diameter axles which slide through the frame/fork and hub. These offer a very solid and reliable way to hold your wheels in place. They also make it so that it is not possible to install a wheel incorrectly crooked. These are highly recommended when using disc brakes as they help prevent brake rub and flex. Thru axles also add a bit of an increase in steering precision. Thru axles also boost overall stiffness, which can be felt improving power transfer during hard, out of the saddle efforts.
Quick Release Axle: The tried and true classic. This is what most people are used to. They are a little lighter than thru axles, and typically allow the wheels to be removed a bit faster.
For Disc Brake Bikes: I recommend thru axles.
For Rim Brake Bikes: I recommend quick release axles.
Quick Release Axle: The tried and true classic. This is what most people are used to. They are a little lighter than thru axles, and typically allow the wheels to be removed a bit faster.
For Disc Brake Bikes: I recommend thru axles.
For Rim Brake Bikes: I recommend quick release axles.
Quick Release axles & dropouts shown up top,
Thru-Axles & dropouts shown below:
Thru-Axles & dropouts shown below:
3rd Water Bottle Mount
- +$20 for Greylock / Greylock+ frames, optional & price included on all other frame models.
I've had many a ride out into the Hilltowns of Western MA and beyond, where water re-fill spots are rare, and the few country stores that are out there often keep inconsistent hours, so water can be scarce and be a big issue in planning and enjoying rides. For touring riders, and those who'd like to push their distance abilities, adding an extra water bottle mount is a great way to help keep you prepared, and allow you to more safely take on longer and more remote rides.
The 3rd bottle mount is located on the underside of the down tube, down by the cranks. This option is only available on medium and large frames, as some small sized frames don't have the clearance to fit the bottle and not hit the front wheel.
The 3rd bottle mount is located on the underside of the down tube, down by the cranks. This option is only available on medium and large frames, as some small sized frames don't have the clearance to fit the bottle and not hit the front wheel.
A customer putting their 3rd bottle mount to good use and picking up some groceries at the end of a ride (Photo: John Bayley)
Rack Mounts
- +$40 on Greylock / Greylock+ frames, optional & price included on all other frame models.
Rack mounts allow you to use a rack with your frame, which can then be used to carry a wide range of bags & gear. This is essential for touring cyclists, commuters, and errand runners who use their bike as their main transportation.
For the greatest possible strength, PVF uses durable mounts, which unlike many other rack mounts are TIG welded the entire way around each mount. This gives a very strong and reliable connection, which can handle a lifetime of use and loading.
For the greatest possible strength, PVF uses durable mounts, which unlike many other rack mounts are TIG welded the entire way around each mount. This gives a very strong and reliable connection, which can handle a lifetime of use and loading.
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Fender Mounts
- Optional & price included with frame. (not compatible with Greylock / Greylock+ frames)
For those who ride in the rain, fenders are a must. Even fair weather riders have likely found that without fenders, they are still getting soaked from wet roads, even the next day after its rained. For Brevet and endurance riders who are doing epic, long distance rides no matter what the weather, being cold and wet can quickly become not only uncomfortable, but dangerous- fenders can be essential for keeping you drier and warmer, on long multi-hour rides in the wet and cold.
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PVF Quick Release Fender Mounts
- $150. (Not Compatible with Greylock / Greylock+ frames)
Using a special and unique design by Pioneer Valley Frameworks, and 100% made in-house, these special mounts can make installing and removing your fenders faster and easier.
These mounts are CNC machined in-house out of corrosion resistant stainless steel, and can be welded in place to the bridges of the frame and fork crown of custom steel PVF forks. They feature a slotted design that makes it so much of the fender's hardware does not have to be removed entirely to take your fenders on and off. A special bracket CNC'ed from aluminum is also installed onto the rear fender for the chainstay bridge mount. This proprietary design can help make changing out your fender setup on the fly less of a hassle.
(Special thanks to John Bayley for giving the inspiration for this design)
These mounts are CNC machined in-house out of corrosion resistant stainless steel, and can be welded in place to the bridges of the frame and fork crown of custom steel PVF forks. They feature a slotted design that makes it so much of the fender's hardware does not have to be removed entirely to take your fenders on and off. A special bracket CNC'ed from aluminum is also installed onto the rear fender for the chainstay bridge mount. This proprietary design can help make changing out your fender setup on the fly less of a hassle.
(Special thanks to John Bayley for giving the inspiration for this design)
CAD Model of the special slotted fender mount on the chainstay bridge
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Tapered Head Tube
- $100
There are two head tube options for bikes using forks with oversized, tapered steerers. The standard type which PVF uses has the same outside diameter along its entire length. The other option is a special head tube which has an outside diameter that tapers along its length. This saves a small amount of weight, and also has a sleek and elegant aesthetic. Due to the main taper occurring where the down tube joins, the down tube's miter must be cut by hand filing to get just the right fit up. The additional labor required, and higher cost of the tapered head tube itself, add a $100 cost for this option.
The outside diameter of this head tube tapers along its length
Pump Peg
- Optional & price included with frame.
A pump peg is a small nub, silver brazed to the headtube of the frame which allows you to carry a full-size frame pump. With a pump peg, the pump remains in place nice and securely. Due to their larger size, frame pumps help make fixing flats fast and easy, as each pump moves a large amount of air. There are some superstitious types out there who believe simply carrying such an effective pump helps ward away flats, though this has not been proven.
PVF supplies Silca Impero Ultimate frame pumps, which are well-agreed as the best and most reliable. These pumps are not cheap, but are beautifully made and last a lifetime. If you'd like to buy a frame pump along with your frame, Silca Impero Ultimates are currently available for $130, and can even be painted to match your frame for typically ~$221 including the pump. (Link to check out the Silca Impero Ultimate).
(Other styles of pumps- compact and Co2 inflators- are also available- please see Build Kit Options page for details)
PVF supplies Silca Impero Ultimate frame pumps, which are well-agreed as the best and most reliable. These pumps are not cheap, but are beautifully made and last a lifetime. If you'd like to buy a frame pump along with your frame, Silca Impero Ultimates are currently available for $130, and can even be painted to match your frame for typically ~$221 including the pump. (Link to check out the Silca Impero Ultimate).
(Other styles of pumps- compact and Co2 inflators- are also available- please see Build Kit Options page for details)
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Oversized T47 Bottom Bracket
- $200
I am a big fan of the classic, 'normal' sized, threaded English bottom bracket. They are incredibly reliable, low maintenance, common, and help ensure your bike works well and squeak free for many years.
A number of years ago, various press-fit bottom bracket systems were introduced. Part of the drive to offer these systems was to be able use cranks with super oversized spindles. These press-fit BB systems have unfortunately proven themselves to be quite unreliable however. They are high-maintenance, prone to squeaking and creaking, and can lose their tolerance after long term use, which can potentially even render the frame unusable.
Enter the T47 bottom bracket standard: T47 bottom brackets allow oversized spindle cranks to be used like the press-fit options, yet the BB cups are threaded into the frame instead of press-fit. The threads of the T47 system mean that it has the same level of reliability as the classic and proven threaded English standard, and will remain squeak free and lower maintenance for many years of hard use.
Do you need an oversized T47 bottom bracket? In my opinion, probably not. Many of these oversized BB shell standards are optimized for carbon fiber frames with very large tube diameters, where they do make a lot of sense. With the smaller tube diameters typical of steel frames, more shell surface area than a classic English bb is unnecessary. The larger size of the shell just means a weight increase. Oversized spindle cranks are also up for debate as to their effectiveness- could a super strong Tour de France sprinter, or track racer benefit from oversized cranks? Yes. For most riders however, the extra stiffness is un-necessary, and less flex occurring in the cranks simply means that the flex is often just shifted to a different area of the bike and frame. But hey, thats just my opinion: for those who really want a T47, it is an option.
The extra cost for this option is due to special tooling and fixturing needed, the added cost of the shells themselves, and due to new CAD drawings & design work needed to layout the drivetrain, tire and chainstay clearance.
A number of years ago, various press-fit bottom bracket systems were introduced. Part of the drive to offer these systems was to be able use cranks with super oversized spindles. These press-fit BB systems have unfortunately proven themselves to be quite unreliable however. They are high-maintenance, prone to squeaking and creaking, and can lose their tolerance after long term use, which can potentially even render the frame unusable.
Enter the T47 bottom bracket standard: T47 bottom brackets allow oversized spindle cranks to be used like the press-fit options, yet the BB cups are threaded into the frame instead of press-fit. The threads of the T47 system mean that it has the same level of reliability as the classic and proven threaded English standard, and will remain squeak free and lower maintenance for many years of hard use.
Do you need an oversized T47 bottom bracket? In my opinion, probably not. Many of these oversized BB shell standards are optimized for carbon fiber frames with very large tube diameters, where they do make a lot of sense. With the smaller tube diameters typical of steel frames, more shell surface area than a classic English bb is unnecessary. The larger size of the shell just means a weight increase. Oversized spindle cranks are also up for debate as to their effectiveness- could a super strong Tour de France sprinter, or track racer benefit from oversized cranks? Yes. For most riders however, the extra stiffness is un-necessary, and less flex occurring in the cranks simply means that the flex is often just shifted to a different area of the bike and frame. But hey, thats just my opinion: for those who really want a T47, it is an option.
The extra cost for this option is due to special tooling and fixturing needed, the added cost of the shells themselves, and due to new CAD drawings & design work needed to layout the drivetrain, tire and chainstay clearance.
*Special cable guides shown in photo on underside of bottom bracket are not included in T47 pricing*
Chain Hanger
- $20
These used to be more common on classic bikes, but are less common today. A chain hanger is located on the inside bottom of the seatstay and allows you to 'hang' the chain, lifted up slightly, to be held in place when you have the wheel off the bike.
Top Tube 'Feed' Bag Mounts
- $20
A set of water bottle boss style mounts can be added to the top of the top tube, toward the head tube to allow small 'feed' style bags to be used. Many of these bags are attached using velcro straps, which aren't very secure, and can dull and scratch the paint of the frame over time.
If you know you'd like to use this style of bag often, these dedicated mounts give a very solid and secure way to mount your bag.
If you know you'd like to use this style of bag often, these dedicated mounts give a very solid and secure way to mount your bag.
(Photo: John Bayley)
Sliding Stainless Dropouts
- $150
Sliding dropouts can be used for riders who want to be able to run a singlespeed setup with disc brakes, or swap between singlespeed and geared setups.
These sliding dropouts are made by Paragon Machineworks in California. I use their variety which are made from stainless steel, and provide corrosion resistance on the surfaces where the axle inserts mount and slide. The axle inserts bolt on and are made from lightweight aluminum. They are available in different configurations, so that you can switch between, multi-geared and singlespeed, or change axle types.
These dropouts can be adjusted and 'slid' forward or backward to tension singlespeed chains as well as change your chainstay length. Unlike many designs, these allow your disc brake to move along with your axle, so you do not have to readjust your brakes at all when you tension your chain, or move the inserts.
These sliding dropouts are made by Paragon Machineworks in California. I use their variety which are made from stainless steel, and provide corrosion resistance on the surfaces where the axle inserts mount and slide. The axle inserts bolt on and are made from lightweight aluminum. They are available in different configurations, so that you can switch between, multi-geared and singlespeed, or change axle types.
These dropouts can be adjusted and 'slid' forward or backward to tension singlespeed chains as well as change your chainstay length. Unlike many designs, these allow your disc brake to move along with your axle, so you do not have to readjust your brakes at all when you tension your chain, or move the inserts.
Internal Cable Routing
- $200 per cable
Running cables internally can give a nice, clean aesthetic. Typically, customers will have just the brake cable routed internally, though internal shift lines and dropper post cables are also possible.
While internal cables can be aesthetically nice, they do make maintenance much harder, and can give an easy entry point for water, which if not treated regularly with internal anti-corrosion spray (such as FrameSaver), can accelerate corrosion of the frame. For these reasons, I usually try to talk people out of internal routing. Also, as a mechanical nerd, I personally kind of prefer seeing external cables, and being able to see 'the guts' and workings on the outside of the frame!
While internal cables can be aesthetically nice, they do make maintenance much harder, and can give an easy entry point for water, which if not treated regularly with internal anti-corrosion spray (such as FrameSaver), can accelerate corrosion of the frame. For these reasons, I usually try to talk people out of internal routing. Also, as a mechanical nerd, I personally kind of prefer seeing external cables, and being able to see 'the guts' and workings on the outside of the frame!
Internal Electronic Shift Routing
- $200
Electronic shifting options are gradually expanding, and slowly becoming more affordable. I still prefer mechanical systems for their accessibility and affordability, and personally find them more reliable and easily serviceable in many ways over electronic systems.
For those who want to go electronic, special routing for the wiring can be done for a clean setup. All openings into the frame for internal routing are reinforced to ensure durability.
For those who want to go electronic, special routing for the wiring can be done for a clean setup. All openings into the frame for internal routing are reinforced to ensure durability.
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S&S Travel Couplers
- $750
S&S Couplers allow the frame to be split apart into two pieces to make certain traveling scenarios easier and cheaper. Many airlines charge large fees for flying with bicycles, and for luggage that is over a specific size range. For those flying frequently and looking to travel with their bike, S&S couplers can potentially save money over the long run.
S&S Couplers are designed and built to be very solid and safe, and with a relatively common hook spanner wrench (used at all bike shops), can be taken apart and adjusted easily. Unlike folding bikes as a travel solution, frames with S&S couplers allow you to use a normal, full-size performance bike, whereas folding bikes typically use small wheel sizes and many compromises that affect the performance of the bike.
Special cable nuts are used to allow the brake and shift lines to be disconnected and reconnected when breaking the bike apart. These cable nuts mean that only very minimal to no adjustments are needed once you've gotten to your location. Special cases made by S&S for frames with couplers are also available through PVF.
Other Travel Solutions: Full Size Bike Cases
*S&S couplers can make sense for certain customers, but it is also worth considering skipping couplers, using a normal frame, and investing in a nice, full size travel case. Over the last few years more high-end travel cases have become available which many find very easy to use, and do a great job of protecting the bike. These cases often mean you still need to pay an airline fee, but depending on the airline you use and how often you fly, the cost of case and fees can still work out to be much cheaper than the cost of S&S couplers. If you'd like to go the route of a full bike travel case, PVF can currently offer several great models made by Thule which can be bought along with your frame.
(Click for link to Thule's Travel Cases)
S&S Couplers are designed and built to be very solid and safe, and with a relatively common hook spanner wrench (used at all bike shops), can be taken apart and adjusted easily. Unlike folding bikes as a travel solution, frames with S&S couplers allow you to use a normal, full-size performance bike, whereas folding bikes typically use small wheel sizes and many compromises that affect the performance of the bike.
Special cable nuts are used to allow the brake and shift lines to be disconnected and reconnected when breaking the bike apart. These cable nuts mean that only very minimal to no adjustments are needed once you've gotten to your location. Special cases made by S&S for frames with couplers are also available through PVF.
Other Travel Solutions: Full Size Bike Cases
*S&S couplers can make sense for certain customers, but it is also worth considering skipping couplers, using a normal frame, and investing in a nice, full size travel case. Over the last few years more high-end travel cases have become available which many find very easy to use, and do a great job of protecting the bike. These cases often mean you still need to pay an airline fee, but depending on the airline you use and how often you fly, the cost of case and fees can still work out to be much cheaper than the cost of S&S couplers. If you'd like to go the route of a full bike travel case, PVF can currently offer several great models made by Thule which can be bought along with your frame.
(Click for link to Thule's Travel Cases)
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Twisted Seatstay Bridge
- $200 for twisted steel, $350 for stainless steel masked and polished.
For those looking to add some cool and unusual details to their bike, these twisted bridges are one of a kind. Made by heating up the metal to a glowing red, and twisting it, each bridge comes out differently. These can be done in steel, or stainless steel that can be masked off and polished.
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